Review - JVC KW-AVX820 and Connects2 Install Kit (Golf GTi Mk5)

Posted by PiSCaRGoT (aka Mike).
Disclaimer : This is going to be mostly a photo blog entry. Warning, heavy graphics ahead.



So finally my packages arrive. Surprised that the Connect2 Install Kit box was actually bigger than the JVC box! Then again there's actually 2 complete kits in there, so. Without further ado, lets open it up and see what's waiting for me inside...


As expected, quality packaging from JVC. The screen came detached from the main HU and stored in a protective cloth bag. You can use this bag to store the screen in future if you need to detach it (ie parking in dodgy places).


The Connects2 set was also impressive to say the least. It is truly a complete install kit. Everything you will need to slap on a spanking new 2DIN HU into your precious Golf GTi, including the double fakra antenna adapter (powered) that is almost impossible to find in Malaysia.


Lets go right ahead to installing the goods. I'm not going to blog about how to remove the panels and your existing player, there's already plenty of guides available on the net. Google and you'll find some good guides.


Lets prep up the new JVC. Turn the HU to its side. Look for the holes I circled in red, that's where you'll need to screw on the bracket that came with the Connects2 fascia kit. (click to enlarge the picture, the circles I drew are hard to see)


The bracket looks like its bent towards the middle a bit : DON'T TRY TO STRAIGHTEN IT! Its meant to be like that, so you can insert the copper lockpiece and slide it around. For my application, I used the 2 holes as per circled in red above. Just after the 2nd small line indicator on the bracket. You can adjust it further in or out depending on how much protrution (or otherwise) you want the HU to have. My setting above will make the HU flushed with the fascia. Screw tight to secure the copper lockpiece in place.


Repeat the same on the other side of the HU for the bracket and copper lockpiece. After you are done, test fit the DIN cage (that came with the Connects2 kit, not the JVC one). Slide into cage REAR of HU first. It should lock into place similar with the picture on top. If it doesn't lock, you might have accidently secured the copper lockpiece with mismatched lengths on either side. Check again. To remove the DIN cage from the copper lockpiece, use the 2 DIN removal keys (they look like 2 identical thin metal pieces) and insert them into sides where the lockpieces are. Slide out the HU from the DIN cage.


Now's a good time to plug in the fakra antenna adapter. There's a label there to identify the white fakra cable, so don't get it wrong. The blue cable is meant for Power Antenna input, so we'll save that until later to connect that.


Time to prep the dash area for the insertion of the fascia. Provided with the kit is 2 foam padding. Don't take out the white backing from the foam, its meant to be there so you can glide the DIN cage in. Whack on some double sided tape and stick it around the middle of the left cavity in your dash (like above). Repeat for the other side.


Screw on the plastic fascia faceplate using the 4 screws that you took out from the old headunit. Then slide in the metal cage through the fascia. You might have to do it carefully as the foam on the sides will make it a tight fit. Pressing on the foam as you slowly slide it in will help you from dislodging the foam. Once done, it should look like above.


Bend the tabs in the DIN cage (using a flathead screw driver) to secure the cage onto the fascia faceplate. You would only need to press the ones closest to you (outer most). Do this for all 4 sides of the cage. Should look like the picture above with all the tabs bent in. DON'T OVERBEND as you might break the tabs!


Lets prep the wiring harness now. Take out the rest of the Connects2 stuff. The little black box is the signal converter for the steering buttons. Plug the black box to the Connects2 wiring harness. Only one head will fit, so you can't get it wrong.


Plug in the other end of the blackbox to your brand of HU specific (mine is JVC) wire. It comes in a seperate packaging, and the wire looks similar with the above, with a different terminating head for different brands.


Grab the wiring harness that came with your new HU. Seperate the wires as per above. One cluster with red, yellow, black and orange wires. Another cluster for speaker wires, these come in pairs for each color (dark green, purple, white and grey). The remaining wires in the last bundle. Leave the light green (handbrake signal) and dark blue (power antenna) longer as you will need to connect these later.


Do the same seperation for the Connects2 wiring harness. It should have all the matching colors as above. Strip the ends of both wiring harness and line them up by the first 2 clusters mentioned above. It will really help to have a wire stripper at this point (there's a lot of wires to strip!)


Depending on which method you would want to join the wires, either get wire tappers (the blue things above) or rubber shrink wraps (or normal electric tape). I would recommend to solder/twist connect them to keep the wire harness compact, but its really your preference.


Go ahead and connect them together according to the same color of wires on each harness. Only the first 2 clusters, leave the parking signal and power antenna free at this point. You will end up with something similar with above (together with the little black box). Congratulations, you now have a fully plug and play harness!


Plug in your harness now to the new HU. It looks like the above after you plug in the main harness and the steering remote wire (from the little black box).


Strip the handbrake signal wire (light green). You need to ground this somewhere (well at least if you want to view videos on the move. Warning, this is considered a HACK, do at your own risk). I opted for the top screw on the rear of HU, as shown above. Unscrew, loop the exposed handbrake signal wire around it, and screw it tight. Make sure you tug it to be sure its secure.


Strip the end of the blue wire on fakra antenna adapter. Join it with the dark blue wire (in the last wire cluster mentioned above). It should look like above. At this point, plug in your antenna adapter to the HU, and the plug & play Connects2 harness to the CANBUS of your car (the big square block). Also, if your HU comes with an external mic for bluetooth like mine, DON'T FORGET TO PLUG THAT IN!


Routing time. I hope you got small fingers. :) Route the USB cable anywhere you want. If you want it in the glove compartment like me, route it as per above. Take out your user manual so you can see the hole where the wire would come through. Put back the manual once you pulled through as much wire length as you want. Don't worry it looks super neat once the manual is back in place. :)


Next, route your external mic. I wanted to place mine on top of the steering column, so I routed initially through the bottom of the steering rack. Look under the steering rack and you should see a hole (as per above angle) to route the mic through.


Here is where I mounted the enternal mic. Try to mount it as far as back as possible, so that not too much of wire is exposed (neater). I mounted mine on top of the steering rack, to the left. It will pick up your voice very well from there, no worries.


You are done! Double check that you have connected all the cables properly, then slide in the new HU into the DIN cage. Do it slowly, ensuring that the big bunch of cables behind don't get snagged in the process. Push it all the way until the copper lockpieces click into place. Now take a step back, marvel at your DIY skillz (L33T!) and enjoy a well deserved ciggie. =D


Once you are done complimenting yourself, start your car and test the HU. Make sure that everything works, including checking if all your speakers have sound. Also check your radio reception (you might have to change your radio band region in Settings to Europe to get certain stations). If everything is dandy, then insert the rectangle thin piece of plastic (this also came with the Connect2 fascia kit) to cover up the gap between the HU and the fascia faceplate. Put back all your dashboard pieces. *Forgive my pictures from now onwards as I did not put the top aircond vent piece into place yet, as I'm going to be change the tray above, so I left it as is.


My first test : DVD with MP3 inside. The UI looks as per above. A bit spartan, but works for me. Will display album art if you have inserted it into your ID3 tag. Sound quality is good as expected from a premium JVC unit.


Steering button test : Everything works as per advertised. Volume up/down and attenuation works without any lag. Phone button doesn't do anything. Don't have a MFD so I can't test track up/down, but it should work as promised.


Bluetooth test : Connected without any problems with my iPhone. Let me call someone (gee I wonder who's number is that. Teh tarik on me if you guess right). According to Mr Mystery, sound quality is good and has no echo (some HUs will give u an echo), so I guess the mic is a noise cancelation type. Solid!


DVD video test (Region 1) : Picture quality is as per expected on a double DIN screen. It might look a bit strained in the photos but that's because I haven't played with the brightness/contrast level when I took these photos. It looks good now. Even Magneto seem to think so! BTW the screen looks excellent even on a bright day, as you can see in the photo (it was freaking bright the sun).


Motion sensor test : Move your hand close to the screen and the control buttons pop up automatically on screen. Move your hand away and the control buttons go away, leaving you with a full screen picture again. Nice. Random japanese tourist behind there seem to think so as well. Yatta!


iPod/iPhone test : Works perfectly. Music search is quick, album art gets displayed, sound quality is excellent. It even charges my iPhone, so I'm assuming it will do the same for your iPods as well.


Faceplate security test : To remove the screen, the motor will move the HU down for you. Click on the button at the bottom of the screen (as per above) to unlock and remove it. Do it quick as it will start to beep and the motor will move the bracket back up again. To put back the screen, just insert the top first then click the bottom of the screen in place. Might take you some practise intially, so go easy and slow the first few times.

So that's the end of the guide and quick review. If you have any questions or orders, do email me directly or call me. Alternatively you can contact Ryou for orders as well.

Just some quick info :
Connects2 complete install kit, as seen above, is RM550. I will only entertain orders for complete kits, not individual components. If you love your car and don't want to let the local accessory boys to butcher your wiring, or have some non-matching "customized" fascia staring at you all the time, this is the way to go.

I also bring in any aftermarket HUs (even those you cannot find in Malaysia) you might want. All major brands like Alpine, Sony, JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer etc etc are available. Price will be generally 10-15% cheaper than RRP in Malaysia, that is, if they are even sold here. Feel free to email me on a no-commitment quote today!

Mike @ PiSCaRGoT
+60163314202